Supports not sticking to bed. Slowly pull the paper in each direction.

Supports not sticking to bed I’m having the issue of filament not sticking to the bed, but curling up and sticking to the nozzle instead. Everything else including regular supports, rafts, flat prints, brims all stick properly (Too well even) but when the printer tries to lay down the lines for the support, t Jun 21, 2020 · A few prints you can use alcohol, then again dish soap, big flat models and models with small footprint on sheet- use glue stick(and not every glue stick is the same, use one that makes a thin layer). Make sure print bed is clean by washing with dish soap and water [and not Isopropyl Alcohol], check bed temperature [increasing tend to help], run bed leveling or full calibration, and remember to use glue if one is using the initial cool plate [not Satin finish that is not yet released] or Engineering plate. Still, with the “Islands” needing to print in thin air, you may not have an alternative. I've tried adjusting the z switch, leveled the x axis, tried different temperatures and the filament still doesn't stick to the bed. Maybe return it to stock settings, default support settings in the slicer and print a single small size object. I have created a ticket with Bambu, but no idea when they will reply. I’ve tried Levelling the bed cleaning the nozzle and adjusting Temperature. The supports are not strong enough. Everything I've seen (including the manual) points to using the glue stick for the materials that stick "too well" - as a way of making them easier to remove. 4mm nozzle, doesn’t change anything Bambu Lab blue and white PLA filaments This is the model I’m trying to print. Let’s cover what causes PLA to lift from the bed, and discuss specific ways to make PLA stick to the bed better. I would HATE to use standard supports, they are just such a PITA but this print takes up the majority of the build plate and is eating filament. If you have done the above properly you should not be able to pull the paper from under the build plate in any direction. First bigger prints don't want to stick to bed and it's start from only one corner, item flat size 10cm x 20cm, bed temp 40°C, end temp 190°C, cooling fan 100%, stock ender 3v2 with glass bed. Method 3. I have a Saturn S and struggled immensely with it not sticking to the plate. Level build plate Ensure when levelling the build plate that the surface you're using is also level. Also, tree supports are great for models like this. It sticks if I’m super close, like extruder-almost-unable-to-extrude kind of close… Ender 3v2 with Cura 5. However, starting today, we are experiencing an issue with the print not sticking. Feb 19, 2024 · I am constantly running into this issue. The last print turned into a spaghetti mess because the tree support didn't stick to the bed. Jan 28, 2016 · ok, could not resist, just did a quick check. Jan 2, 2017 · Re: Supports wont stick to bed I've wiped off with 70% isopropyl alcohol pads after every print Not sure if you're still having problems, haven't read the whole thread, but for what it's worth I was having this exact same issue - and worse - until this morning using clinical grade 70% alcohol wipes (70% isopropyl alcohol, 30% water I enabled support brim and the setting is 12. Achieving a perfect first The issue im having consistently is that the supports will just detach from the bed causing the print to fail. Aug 5, 2015 · You could try not using a raft, and then play with your first layer width/height/speed options on the Layer tab. Make sure you're using fairly lint-free paper towel/cloth and check for any physical specks after you clean. Using a glue-stick actually reduces the effectiveness. An index card is too thick in my humble opinion. The higher heat and sticky substance on the print bed is a perfect combination to get the first layer of ABS to stick down properly then, the following prints wont stick to the heat-bed, my room temp is roughly 22C, and I am using default 65C for the heatbed. Getting an issue with all parts not sticking to the bed during printing. Tried cleaning the bed suface, applying hairspray and increasing the temperature a little. Aug 4, 2020 · RE: First prints - not sticking to bed enough. I just posted this in another post but my kobra came with a misaligned bed sensor which resulted in requiring the z offset to be adjusted like crazy (over -2. Bed temp for textured PEI plate from 90->95 both better stick during printer and kept the chamber warmer reducing warping a bit. Print test models for bed leveling and level the bed as it prints. I have tried adjusting the temperature up to 265 (was 255) and bed from 70 to 80. Cause some will require gluestick and warm bed (55c), others glue stick with cold bed, others no glue stuck at all. Normally you need to go lower then you think, the first layer calibration. Ive also had good luck with getting the supports to stay put by using a brim on the print instead of a skirt. Feb 24, 2023 · I changed my filament to geeetech pla 1. Do you think the issue might be because I chose Slim Tree Supports? Would selecting a different base pattern for the supports help? Apr 2, 2024 · Hello, I was printing an upside down basket, with medium autogenerated tree supports. 1 Filament: Addnorth E-pla (Link to filament) Jan 13, 2024 · But it’ll also make the support much harder to remove. I have only had this printer for about a month If it's the raft that's not sticking rather than the supports try these. you need to make sure your supports are correct: a - supports are needed to adhere the model to the bed b - supports prevent Islands from failing c - supports are needed to prevent the model from moving slightly when peeling off the FEP Watch loads of 3dPrintingPro YouTube videos and then go through the whole list again 5)Test. Welcome to share your unique models, printing tips & ask for help. It was a 21 hour long print. Try adjusting your z offset while printing to get it closer while you are printing your first layer. If they don't have enough connection to the supports, the layer will stick to the FEP instead. I removed the buildtak they included. 07. Those are the most likely settings to affect bed adhesion. nothing. thanks The rafts to help stick and supports to prevent spaghetti anywhere part of your print has no material between it and the bed. Since I am new to owning a 3d printer I ask - which Dec 9, 2022 · One user who was experiencing issues with his supports not sticking to the bed, found out there was a bug on his Cura version that was preventing supports from sticking. Slowly pull the paper in each direction. Also there are pla filaments that require a hotter bed temperature and 55c is enough with a little of glue stick or wet glue from bambulab. Those adjust the properties of the first layer that is printed on the bed, so if you disable the raft, then it means you can adjust the first layer of your part and the support structures. If you find your PETG is still not sticking to a glass bed, you can also use additional adhesives such as the ones below to help with bed adhesion. In this video, you will learn 7 tips and tricks on how to ensure the first layer of your print sticks to the heated bed nicely. I am using PETG filaments on Textured PEI Plate and also tried this on Smooth PEI Plates/High Temp Plate setting on Bambu Lab O1S 0. WHAT THE HECK IS GOING ON. Heat the bed up to 70 degrees and let it sit for 10-15 minutes Wipe it good with some IPA (over 90%) and a paper towel on the hot bed Hi, I am currently using an Ender 3 pro and my Plastic seems to not be getting soft enough to stick and is curling into a ball. The nozzle might be a little close. I tried to increase the temp to 70C, which still wont help but there seems to be some filmanet stick to the heatbed. Not sure if the bug is in older cura versions. Second problem in coment. No matter what I do, Tree supports do not stick or even attempt to stick to bed. Start the print Oct 27, 2023 · Today's Top Creality 3D Printer & Accessories Deals. Also slower first layer might help. The issue I noticed was that the gluestick didn't cover the whole print area, but again, I didn't think it would be an issue. Note: When leveling the print bed, make sure to level both nozzles, plastic and fiber. Finding the ideal 3D printer and latest deals can be an overwhelming task, especially when a substantial amount of money is at stake. Also, the nossle hits the print once it gets going. Thanks for the reply and links. In simplify3d use a brim. I used ordinary school/craft glue stick (which I stole from my daughter's school pencil case) - the kind for gluing paper. In either case I would check the z gap between support and model in the layer view and ensure there is at least a 1 layer gap. the first layers look ok, but suddenly the printed tree supports loosing contact to the heat bed and fall. The paper will now be able to slide. Heat up the bed and put down a layer of glue stick Load up a bed leveling print. For temps, I would get a cheapo IR thermometer from the auto parts store. No matter what settings, heat changes and leveling I do it just won’t stick. Mar 28, 2018 · There might be several issues in your question, but in relation to bed adhesion, I'll share one of the most useful tips I wish someone had told me when I started out: Spread some glue-stick over the area to be printed. Are you trying to fill the bed too densely with objects? Can you show some screenshots of your model and support from the slicer, not sure what else to suggest. I think the same is true with the tops of the supports. Never had Nov 22, 2023 · Reasons PLA Doesn’t Stick to The Bed, and How to Fix. I'm going to assume that the bed is leveled as I went through a similar thing of 40+ leveling attempts to find out that my surface itself was the cause. 28mm Set the speed to 30mm/s Set your nozzle temp to 230 or whatever your temp tower test for the filament looked best. If your z-offset is too far or close, the bead of PLA will not stick to the bed. Grab the extruder and give it a similar shake. Oct 25, 2023 · Why does my 3D print not stick to the bed? Your 3D print might not be sticking to the bed because of wrong first-layer 3D printing temperatures, incorrect extrusion settings, your print bed may need cleaning, or your platform may need leveling. Check your first layer. Here’s some more details: Printer: Bambu Lab A1 FW version 01. Hello u/burntbottomedbiscuit!Be sure to check the following. 2mm and 0. Nov 22, 2023 · PETG Not Sticking to Glass Bed Printer bed adhesive products from Matterhackers. Cura has a plug in for calibration prints. I am using the P1S printer with AMS. Nov 17, 2023 · However, a model with slender foundations or fewer contact points may require the foundational support of a raft. increasing the amount of supports. As for PLA sticking to Buildtak, the keys for me are a clean bed (always wipe down with alcohol before printing), proper bed leveling, and proper 1st layer Oct 25, 2023 · Why does my 3D print not stick to the bed? Your 3D print might not be sticking to the bed because of wrong first-layer 3D printing temperatures, incorrect extrusion settings, your print bed may need cleaning, or your platform may need leveling. This problem has a few probable causes, depending on the material. 00mm). I am not sure if I did anything wrong, or should I simply keep increasing the temp. 1 mm layer height Follow our rules and you can get tremendous support and suggestions from our community. Feb 15, 2022 · The nozzle should neither be too far from nor too close to the bed. That usually puts down a layer and then starts printing the support lines on it which gives a bit better adhesion. If the paper is easier to pull in any direction then the bed is not First layer of supports not sticking to bed Bed is leveled, material is PLA. I’ve leveled the bed and adjusted my z-offset. This destroy the hole print. If you are using glass, a milky solution of pva elmers glue and water works great if you spread it on the hot bed with a brush, letting it evaporate before printing. IDK if the powder-coated sheets have a PEI coating or not (I doubt it). I disagree, I'm having trouble of removing PET-G parts from print bed, especially short and small parts, but hardest one to remove is the start wipe line (Prusa Mini). Chamber 50+ before starting. Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, troubleshoot, and explore everything related to 3D printing with the Ender 3. Brim offset from . Then tried printing a mini and it also detached from the bed pretty early into the print. While I am at it, 60 s bottom exposure time sounds like a lot. Please help with Oct 5, 2018 · I also try to minimize supports were at all possible when printing parts. Dry it and put it on your heat bed (still with the gloves). The default value is 0. the idea of manual brim below the support pillars is super easy, just create a few sizes (or even one) of objects, square, round whatever suits the model, maybe just a few layers high (0,3mm). Jan 17, 2024 · Hi all, my issue is very simple: I cannot get, for the life of me, PLA to stick to the bed. Sep 17, 2020 · This article will detail the best ways to get your ABS prints to stick to the print bed. However, it will not stay put on a cold bed if your trying to print anything higher than 15mm/s. Another thing to try is cleaning the bed with some isopropyl alcohol. Best luck is on the textured pei plate with hair spray 117c bed first layer 108c bed 260c extruder bambu asa generic settings. I received a Sonic Mini 4k for Christmas and have been having a bit of trouble with prints sticking to the bed. If none of these options work, you can 3D print with brims, rafts, or skirts, or replace your build Are you using tree supports or regular supports? There is a bug with tree supports whether the z distance between the supports and the print is off by 1 layer height. Repeat step 2 several times if needed, until it's equal on all sides After this, I don't have issues for several weeks, or even months with adhering. Help! then, the following prints wont stick to the heat-bed, my room temp is roughly 22C, and I am using default 65C for the heatbed. I clean my print bed after every print. 89 Bambu Studio slicer latest version 0. Hello u/Ecstatic-Passion2577!Be sure to check the following. If the bed is not level, one side of your bed may be too close to the nozzle, while the other side is too far away. Jan 8, 2024 · Hey guys, I am struggling with supports for few days now (basically since I have the printer :D). Use the default exposure as well. The 2 Pro doesn't have an anodized plate surface. Things do work when I use raft but does not work with a skirt. BoroGlass build plate and shims were just plain worth it. Now I have several supports lose, 5 hours into a 16 hour print, and don't know how to stick them back into place. Any suggestions for the future? Hello u/notxapple!Be sure to check the following. true. Petg sticks to much on the pei sheet, use window cleaner, this leaves a layer on the bed, so it does not stick to much. Does anyone know how to fix this. If you haven’t leveled your bed for a while, this could be a potential fix for your supports not touching the build plate properly. You have to remember when people first started printing TPU, speeds were SLOW, and people were using 3mm TPU filament which worked in Bowden setups. 1 -> . This can cause elephant foot if you print directly on the build plate without supports, but will increase build plate adhesion and won’t affect your actual print if you are lifting on supports. He eventually solved his problem by downgrading his Cura version. First they are not sticking to the bed even after applying lots of glue, and then they are stringing, maybe because the base of the supports is moving when the extruder moves over them . Avoid drafts. Other than that, glue stick I guess, never used that myself tho. The actual model will stick but the supports will break off mid print causing spaghetti issues seen below. Increase the thickness of the supports or reduce the cure time. My temps are 205 for the extruder and 65 for the bed and I'm using the magnetic bed from ender. Thankfully the overhangs came out okay. The difference between an all metal hot end and one that is not is the PTFE tube goes all the way down to the nozzle in one that is not, whereas an all metal hot end still uses a PTFE tube at the top, but stops in the radiator and doesn't touch the nozzle or heat block. Apr 2, 2024 · K1 Max - Tree supports not sticking to bed, got a bunch of spaghetti-- HELP! General Discussions The paper method is a pretty good one. Scale the Z height of the model to 0. I'm new to priting PET-G (only printed PLA so far) and I'v heard that it's hard to print since it won't always stick to bed. Said differently where you have overhanging material or air under the material of the print as it builds vertically. Use the next support thickness up. PVA on 220°, Bed on 80°, glas plate clean and spraid with 3dlac Problem the 1st bid of the print is not sticking to the bed any sugestions are welcom. But gitting PLA to stick to a textured mini-bed is a mystery. make sure it’s not too loose - If it flexes to the lift height it’ll not separate from the FEP appropriately on each lift make sure your support contacts aren’t too small - if they’re too small they’ll not fully for and not have enough tensile strength remaining to prevent them from ripping off Prints not sticking to the bed. Bed temp is 60C, extruded temp is 205C, print speed 100 mm/sec. (If your slicer doesn't offer this option try one listed in the beginners guide like Chitubox) Also, buy a pair of flush cutters from a local Crafts store or the crafts section of Walmart for cutting the supports. If I use a glue stick it also works fine. May 8, 2021 · RE: Model not sticking to supports & first layer issues. ive tried switching filaments. Make sure you write somewhere how you print each filament successfully. 00 + AMS lite FW version 00. It will actually stick too hard then. Apr 16, 2020 · RE: Print not sticking on support. But then i want to print a poop shoot for the p1p which needed supports. Feb 24, 2022 · Troubleshooting. 10 votes, 22 comments. Try printing with the bed 5 or 10 degrees warmer. My default is 2 s, but I go up to 40 s if printing flat on the bed without any supports, this removes the elephants foot. I simply raised the bed sensor on the print head by about 2mm and can now print perfectly at a zero offset adjustment. I've leveled and releveled the bed, changed the nozzle, wiped my pei sheet with alcohol, changed the filament, changed temp settings and nothing feels like sticking to the bed correctly and the filament keeps coming out in blobs. Any advice would be appreciated please. Add a brim and lower the print speed of the first layer If and only if you're using the PEI sheet (not textured or silk) clean with acetone. Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. This leave a film of pva that will give you great bed adhesion. 01. 8mm for Z and XY distance respectively but you can change it under the “Supports” settings in Cura. Given how much liquid resin is on the plate when you retract it, it's really hard to see the first few layers have printed or not. Many users recommend properly re-leveling your bed and checking if it is not warped. The thinner the part the more obvious the issue and part will loosen off the bed and fly off. I designed and built printers from the ground up. I’m using the coarse side of my print bed not the glass. Im using Bambu labs PETG, and using their built in profile for it. I originally thought it was the K calibrations were off, as one of the spools was set to 0 (other 3 were Hello u/MMIITT!Be sure to check the following. If the nozzle is too far from the bed, the first layer will not stick to the bed. Hello! I am still fairly new to resin printing so I apologize if this does not work. But it will still consistently fail with tree or linear support. A few things that I would try: make sure your nozzle isn't too close to the bed, lower the support density a bit, and the support z distance a bit. Clean your PEI with dish sope (just soap without! any additives) and warm water really good with a brush. 3. We have 5 MK3 and I got an MMU2 to work. 28mm Set the first layer height to 0. Although the auto bed leveling functions correctly, with all readings in green, the problem arises when the printer begins the first layer—it simply doesn't stick. On certain prints they start to unravel during the start of my printing as shown in the screenshots. As simple as that. 4 nozzle that came with the printer. raises the nozzle - lowers it. Sliced in CURA w 0. Hi, so to get straight to the point, my prints won’t stick to my print bed. The best way to get ABS to stick to your print bed is to use a higher bed temperature and a good adhesive, before printing. Some parts don't even stick to the support, some of them come with the supports twisted (see pictures). What could be the issue? Jan 19, 2023 · As the supports you have generated in Cura not sticking to the bed is not much different than the print itself not sticking to the bed, the typical culprits that cause bed adhesion issues, such as a bed that is not clean or correctly leveled, are the most likely causes in this case as well. Dry with kitchen or toilet paper. Edit: Actually I need to ask op if they're using a raft. On the lowest increment raise the bed up a fraction of a millimeter. If they fail due to part movement on top of the interface while printing the “islands”, you may want to try manual tree supports and paint a larger support surface. Still getting the occasional warping leading to the part peeing up. I've print 100 parts a week, for 8 years on many different printers. I was wondering if anyone could help me, I cannot seem to get any of my prints to stick to the bed, I have changed the ink, temperate, levelled the bed and I can still not get the prints to stick to the bed I can only do it with glue. Been there done that. Took off the flex plate, sanded the build plate, different resins, different settings, different vat itself with new FEP. ive tried moving the z axis down more, nothing. Aright, the latest print was a success! Stuff I've changed:-Increased pillar diameter to 2mm-Increased support density to 150 %-manually placed more supports on the surfaces with not enough supports (in my eyes)-Increased exposure time for first layer up to 40 sec The PEI coating on the bed is designed to improve adhesion. I recommend downloading and printing bed squares that print across multiple points across the bed. that is not quite true: it depends on the filament and the glue - PVAc glues have a glass transition of about 65 to 75 °C and a melting point of about 85 to 95°C - so if you use the glue stick while printing with PLA at 55°C bed temperature, it will aid the adhesion, if you print ABS with 95°C Nov 21, 2016 · good morning all anybody got any advise on following; working on the 1st trials and trying to get to understand all settings. Some of my larger prints are not sticking to the bed on my Neptune 3 Pro. Um, Prusa's have an E3D V6 which is an all metal hot end. I'd say look at the filament you use and see the bed temps range in there, play around with them. Do not use your oven, a filement dryer is pretty cheap all things considered, I got one for 50$-ish dollars that reports the ambient humidity and has d There's a big cult following online claiming glue helps adhesion, when usually it's the opposite. Edit. I will +1 the comments about keeping the bed at 60. If none of these options work, you can 3D print with brims, rafts, or skirts, or replace your build Hold the bed on opposite corners and rock it a little, there should be no play. 05 found the brim was not sticking well enough to the part with default settings. Purple gluestick is your lord and savior. The main object is still stuck tight (I wiggled it a little bit, but not enough to mess with alignment). Now I don't know what you use for your bed to help adhere but with my qidi tech 1 it uses a pad that acts as a great surface for stuff to stick to. Most fep sticking issues is because there aren't enough supports and the print will rip right off the supports. Also you could try a little bit larger initial layer thickness. Clean bed with dish soap, very important. If the nozzle is too close to the bed, it will drag across the bed and damage the bed, and the filament can’t be extruded smoothly. In my experience 90% of my failures are support related. The first layer of any 3D printed model is the foundation of printing the model properly. Clean build plate Tighten/loosen fep to around 300hz Clean out resin vat and use fresh resin (thoroughly shaken prior) Sand build plate with 240 grit for extra adhesion. I've cleaned the bed multiple times, and the nozzle is also clean. 60C for the entire print and my adhesion issues go away. 75 in black, and the first little things (without supports) works also ok. I don't know why slicers like to default to a lower temp after the initial layer, but every time I try to print PLA that way it ends up lifting off the bed. Can anyone help?? Dec 7, 2022 · One method that works for fixing Cura supports not touching the model or print is to reduce Support Z Distance and Support XY Distance. I would not only level the bed, but also make sure your nozzle is not too far away or too close to the bed. The part itself is printing fine, but the tree supports are all messed up. I would try to maybe increase the initial layer extrusion coefficient so that it over extrudes a little and then "squishes" the plastic a little bit on the bed. Adhesion was just fine on the bed but seems none of the supports wanted to stick when applied on top of the PLA. Reply reply Dec 15, 2024 · Trying to use an Ender - 3 v2 for the first time. This isn't the first time it's happened, and I've already cleaned the bed with soap and water, but the problem persists. Issues with prints sticking to the bed. 00. . I am using Sunlu PLA filament (white), 215 degrees for nozzle and 60 degrees for heated bed. The first try of the test print got about a half cm before it detached. Interestingly, a raft may not stick to the bed as you desire, despite it being a solution for poor first layer adhesion. I use 20 s. If you had a massive area on the fep, but only a few pole bases on the bed, the bed would lose and the whole thing would come off, an adhesion fail. Whenever I print anything that uses them, after some amount of layers extruder starts slapping parts of supports left and right. ( Again make sure to angle the print) Lower your lift speed from 60 to 40. As far as the filement, it probably needs to be dried if you just opened it and started printing. Prints not sticking to the print bed can be caused by an inaccurate bed level and the M3D software. I have a video showing the issue very clearly - not sure where to upload it. I increased support floor density to 50%. In fact, the PLA doesn't seem to even touch the bed as it just gums up on the extruder. The print doesn’t consistantly stick to the bed. Cause + Solution Peeling/Warping is seen at a print corner - This could be due to incorrect nozzle height relative to the print bed. The supports themselves aren't touching the build plate at any time during the printing process anyway. The problem I'm facing right now is that I did a test piece, to see that orientation and supports are all ok (which they were) and afterwards I filled the bed with parts (18 pcs) but every time I do a batch, some of them fail. I found increasing "rest time after retract" to give better results. Not just 5 min. It can help get PLA sugars off. This print is fairly large and will need better supports. OP also says their base layers are sticking fine, it's just the supports not building on the raft for some reason. Then lower your first layer, if it is to high, the filament will not stick, and let loose while your printing, and then you have a big round ball on your extruder sticking. ive re calibrated, I have a Comgrow PEI sheet, Ive cleaned the bed with water, ive cleaned it with soapy water, then rinsed it with water, ive tried putting a thin layer of glue on the bed nothing. If your printer has an adjustable bed and you’re having trouble getting your first layer to stick to the bed, the first thing you will want to verify is that your printer’s bed is flat and level. You'll probably have to wait at least until the supports have started printing for a bit in order to tell if stuff is working by pausing it for a look (which does retract the plate for just this reason, yes). Using Bambu basic PLA. If you are printing something that needs supports, use HIPS and a raft (you will never get the supports or raft off clean on ABS) Check your flow and your tool/bed temps. Seems like it's not sticking properly. When the larger layers cure against the FEP film, t It creates a suction cup and those supports need to be strong enough to pull it away. (Cura) Tree Supports are not working properly. They start out fine and then eventually get knocked off the bed and it doesn't seem to stick. Apr 14, 2023 · If the print bed is not leveled, the print bed will not be the proper distance from the nozzle, resulting in poor bed adhesion. A bunch of cool air can cause the bed to momentarily cool which can cause the print to release. Angle the print 45 degrees. The N2 Plus can handle overhangs quite well if your print speed, filament temperature and cooling are set well. Releveled the bed and cleaned with some IPA and the next try went well. The print itself is sticking just fine except the time the support knocked the print off the build plate. You can adjust your settings and calibrate once you get stuff to stick. Have fun in the 3D printing world with Creality! i'm at my wits end with my Ender 3 today. I have had my X1-C for about a month now and am continuing to run into issues with supports not sticking to the print bed for the duration of the print. I hear of people getting away with 10 in a row or whatever if they're careful about not touching the bed when they pull their prints but taking the 10 seconds to clean with IPA seems like a no-brainer. Stick Stick; Magigoo; Failing that, there are also specialty build surfaces that PETG sticks to very well. Whenever I want to print a model I have to cut it to absurd levels to make sure there are no supports anywhere. The dog also prints with a raft so that could be why it sticks but your sliced parts do not. You really need a lot of support surface area on the plate compared to the contact area on the Teflon Wash the PEI bed with warm water and dish soap, no alcohol. Kinda hard to tell with your video. For instructions on how to level the print bed, see Level the Print Bed (Desktop) or Level the Print Bed (Industrial). Hmmm, other thing that might be it is the bed temps, I print pla at 70 for bed and 220 on the nozzle. Put a shit ton of supports. Dec 12, 2022 · You always want to have a bed that is leveled correctly for the best results. It will print on a cold bed. Jul 7, 2023 · I just started using PETG and having some difficulty getting it to stick (and its also stringing as its being put down if that makes sense). Z-Offset Issues Source: Reddit. gkwug ryvo zcsr majspyf ngvmvua dhexy patmiu lvryq hgbq zczv